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Gillian Holdsworth’s Trans-Nepal Trek Diary

Part Four: 17th – 24th September

Monday, 17th September

We left our ‘unexpected’ campsite early and the porters had dal bhat before departure today – a new strategy! They all flew up the next hill!

Today was our first 5000 metre pass, the Kagmara La – and we were walking through snow spattered country with the 7000 metre peak of Kanjirdoa to the north and Kagmara Himal to the south-east.

It was one of those classic Nepalese passes where every time you think you have reached the top, you find there is more uphill to go!

We finally crossed at 3.30 – not hanging around long because of the wind-chill – and dropped down into the desolate landscape of the Pungmu valley where we camped at 4600 metres. A tough day!

Tuesday, 18th September

Had a ‘lie in’! The departure time 8 a.m. Headed down the Pungmu valley all day with spectacular views of Kanji Roba towering above us to the northwest.

Stopped at the village of Pungmu – a small settlement of about twelve houses where the travelling rice salesman was in town – supplying the village with rice from the lower hills.

Agriculture is very marginal here and they grow only buckwheat, potatoes and wheat. We continued down the valley, camping at a hospital which practises Tibetan medicine.

The Tibetan doctor (Amchi) showed us round – he has one room full of drying herbs and plants and his consulting room was full of the final product – bottles of powders and pills, all hand-made from local herbs.

It was very interesting!

Wednesday, 19th September

We walked up the Phoksundo river, passing a spectacular waterfall to the village of Ringmo where we camped at Phoksundo lake – a stunning turquoise and aquamarine lake at 3600 metres surrounded by steep, snow covered mountains.

Along the west side we could see the path to Shey gompa cut into the rock face – the route we would take tomorrow.

We took the afternoon off – bathing in the lake (not very warm), visited the monastery (the people of lower Dolpo are in the main Bon, a form of Buddhism which pre-dates Buddha’s birth) and watching the people of Ringmo harvest their potatoes and store them underground in order to protect them from the winter floods and snow. The lake that night shimmered in the moonlight – quite haunting!

Thursday, 20th September

We left Ringmo for the Roman valley – climbing steeply above Phoksombo lake to

4100 metres, and descended to the Phoksombo river at the northwest side of the lake.

We walked along this wide valley until it finally narrowed into an impressive canyon.

After crossing the river, we were joined by a group of dolpo pa (people from Dolpo) heading north.

One of them was Tinlé’s son (for those of you who are familiar with the leading character in the film ‘Himalaya’). They were camping in a cave and eating potatoes for supper, so we invited them to join us for a more substantial dinner for which they were grateful (dal bhat).

We had a fascinating evening learning about the way of life in these remote mountain parts.

Friday, 21st September

We broke camp early as we had a long day with a 5100 metre pass to cross. However, having missed the ‘short cut’ to the pass we had a series of debates over the map as to where exactly we were! Finally we took a longer route with a higher pass, 5320 metres, arriving at Shey gompa at 6 p.m. A long tough day! There is not much in Shey gompa except for a monastery, a mountain retreat, a few small houses and nomad tents. At the top of the Sacred Valley is the Crystal mountain – which we were unable to see as it was raining, snowing and covered in cloud. I am sure it is a great place for meditation, but for us it was cold and wet!

Saturday, 22nd September

Woke up to sleet and low cloud. Made a visit to Shey gompa – there are eight lamas here – but only one currently in residence, the rest are farther north, harvesting before winter which starts in late October. They can have up to one metre of snow here, apparently.

The gompa is 800 years old but was renovated thirty years ago and has some interesting paintings and statues of green tara and guru rimpoche (Buddhist gods) – both old and new. The weather cleared and we headed north east to Namlong gompa over our second 5000 metre pass in two days – it is becoming a habit!

Sunday, 23rd September

Left Namlong gompa for Saldang – where we hoped to buy kerosene. En route we spotted a flock of blue sheep only 100 metres from the pass. They are rare and shy, and we were lucky to see them so close.

Saldang is a stunning terraced village above the Nagon valley. We lunched by the river – it was very hot. We saw a huge yak train of 50+ yaks bringing goods from Tibet. The herders smelt strongly of Chinese brandy!

We continued on to the village of Koma (4300 metres). These villages are very remote – three days walk from the Tibetan border which we can see across the valley – a staggering landscape! We are surrounded by 6000 metre mountains; grey, pink and white in the evening light. It is incredibly arid – an arctic desert!

There are about thirty families living here and it is harvest time – buckwheat and wheat. A tough, but beautiful, place in which to live.

Monday, 24th September

Walked from Koma to Shimen – a very organised village with irrigated barley and wheat fields. We continued up the river valley, meeting a party of thirty Germans from Munich on the trail. It began to rain and there was an icy wind blowing down the valley.

We finally stopped at a nomad’s tent (they use Chinese army tents nowadays) for respite from the rain, where we met a group of Maoists doing pre-election lobbying! We pressed on to the village of Faal where we camped, drying ourselves in another nomad’s tent.

This family had a Chinese motorbike which they had carried from Tibet on a yak last year – they use it for herding yaks apparently – incongruous! The people in this village trade with Tibet in beer, brandy, cigarettes, salt, rice, cooking oil, clothing, shoes and obviously new motorbikes! We had a fascinating evening.

Gillian Holdsworth’s Trans-Nepal Trek Diary

Part Three: 9th – 16th September

Sunday, 9th September

Crossed Rara Lake in a canoe (of sorts!) this morning and then started climbing through pine forests and alpine meadows where sheep and cattle were grazing.

As we climbed higher we walked through forests of rhododendrons, azaleas (sun Patti) and silver birch. The bark of this silver birch is used by mountain people as paper.

We crossed the pass at 3,984 metres and saw the aeroplane flying into Mugu below us!

Spectacular views of the Kanti Himal range to the north and Lake Rara to the west. Continued along a ridge heading east – lots of edelweiss and gentian growing here. Finally, descended through a beautiful valley to the village of Bulbuli in the Jumla district where we stayed overnight – a beautiful day!

Monday, 10th September

Another fantastic walk!

We dropped down through a narrow shaded valley full of wild flowers to the village of Chauth.

We passed water-driven mills where women were milling wheat. The district of Jumla seems more organised and affluent. Another big apple growing area and we had many debates with local people as to which apples are the most delicious, Humla, Mugu or Jumla apples!

After lunch by the Tila river, we climbed up to the Dafé Lekhj and camped for the night. We were joined by a train of 30 horses carrying cement from Jumla to Mugu for the construction of a drinking water supply.

Tuesday, 11th September

Dropped down from Dafé Lekhj (3,650 metres) to Jumla (2,449 metres).

Walked with an elderly lady who stopped to clean her gold ear-rings with a tooth brush before heading to town! I wondered if I should follow suit.

Jumla is a large hill town and the zonal centre of Kanali zone. There is a fair weather rod which is currently closed because of landslides.

There is a hospital, army barracks and airport. A river flows through the two centre with willows growing on the banks. There are two important Hindu temples here – Bhairbab and Chandarnath. Chandarnath boasts an ash covered yogi.

Wednesday, 12th September

Siobhan arrived from Nepalgung with too many bags and Toblerone which had melted in the heat! However, we are still waiting for more staff and unlikely to leave today. Gamba took us on a “city tour” and we saw an ox, apparently too scared to cross the bridge over the Tila river, try and swim across. He did finally make it but it was touch and go as he was badly buffeted through the rapids.

Thursday, 13th September

Left Jumla en route to Dolpa. We walked east, up the Tila river where we became involved in the funeral of an elderly lady from a nearby village who had died during the night. After her body was finally on the funeral pyre we were asked to join the village mourning period of thirteen days. This apparently meant that we would have to eat in this village for the next thirteen days as we had attended the funeral! We apologied and continued on our way! We passed many trains of mules being taken to Dolpa for sale. This is because the road to Jumla is nearly open and mules will apparently become obsolete. They hope to sell each animal for approximately £600 – we wondered if they might buy a jeep with the proceeds!

Friday, 14th September

We walked through a series of interconnected river valleys – absolutely stunning!

We stopped at a police post in Munisangu. The head policeman showed us his collection of yasogomba – the secret to eternal youth apparently!

Yasogomba is the Nepalese equivalent of a truffle, found above 5,000 metres. It is half insect, half fungus and fetches £10,000 per kilo in China!

He kindly gave us some yasogomba and we drank it in hot milk in the evening (apparently the best method of preparation) – the youthful effect is not instantaneous!

Saturday, 15th September

Today we climbed out of Jumla, crossing the Muri pass (3,850 metres) and descended into Dolp district. We stopped for lunch in a pine forest where we met an Australian and his two porters en route to Mount Saipal in Humla. He didn’t think I would make Taplejung by 17th November! We continued through forests of Himalayan oak on a beautiful winding pass, dropping down to 3,000 metres in the village of Rimi where we camped at the local school. All night long we were treated to a canine chorus which didn’t induce sleep!

Sunday, 16th September

Left Rimi school en route for Kagmara La (5,115 metres). We walked steadily up the Bheri river valley passing through a number of villages. The people in this valley describe themselves a Lama Chetri and practice both the Hindu and Buddhist faiths. Finally, stopped for lunch on the Jagdula river, having crossed into the Dolpo National Park. We had a porter revolution on our hands – they were deeply unimpressed by our late lunch at 2.30 p.m. and the path ahead appeared bleak – no water and no camping sites. However, an unlucky goat which had apparently fallen off the side of the mountain and was subsequently butchered by three men heading down the valley, proved our redemption! We bought four legs, the back and half the ribs for a meat dinner and Gamba, who is blessed with an extraordinary charisma which allows him to turn a crisis into comfort and almost luxury, discovered an unexpected camp site which required “excavating” as it was on an angle but had no dogs! Everyone was happy and Gamba explained to the porters that sometimes “in order to see the rainbow you have to put up with the rain”!

Gillian Holdsworth’s Trans-Nepal Trek Diary

3rd – 8th September

Monday, 3rd September

Walked along the Humla Kanali all day – crossing over a huge suspension bridge to the south side of the river, overgrown with nettles and ganga.

We bought fish which we cooked that evening at our riverside camp below Ulapani. The local people shared walnuts with us. Olli had a lesson in how to make a chillum from some passing villagers!

Tuesday, 4th September

Woke up to pouring rain. Olli had left his boots outside the tent which was unfortunate! We continued down the Humla Kanali in rain through forests of stinging nettles – they sting much worse when wet! Sisnu-Pani (wet stinging nettles) is a Nepalese word used for punishment!

We crossed the river to the north bank and continued as it curved south to the Mini river. We then headed east to the village of Pitlang –a dirty, muddy village with no water. Porters complaining that their loads are too heavy and threatening industrial action!

The weather cleared up during the day and we saw hoopoes with their golden crests. In Nepal they are known as lama chura because their crests resemble that of a Buddhist lama.

Wednesday, 5th September

One of the cooks was sick overnight – thought to be the water. However, we acquired another porter and started climbing after crossing the Take river.

Stopped for lunch on a ridge – Dharma-deurali where I managed to contact home by satellite ‘phone. I was surrounded by scores of school children who were fascinated by this person talking into a black plastic box!

Continued uphill to the village of Rimi – a short day’s walk because of our sick cook.

Thursday, 6th September

Poured with rain all night – we left by 6.30 to cross the Chankali Lekhjl (3,616 metres) and climbed up for six hours in cool, cloudy weather – fortunately there was no rain. The scenery was spectacular! The forest is apparently good hunting ground for wild deer and pheasants. After crossing the pass we dropped 800 metres to the village of Baun – a filthy village – knee deep in mud and human waste – a depressing campsite!

Friday, 7th September

Rained during the night but our first sunny day! Left at 7 a.m. and crossed the Mugu Kanali in a rope sling. 15 rupees per person. The bridge was taken out some years ago at the start of the conflict.

After lunch in Ghangadi, the district centre of Mugu, we climbed up to Rara Lake at 3,012 metres. This is Nepal’s largest lake – a stunning vivid blue, surrounded by pine forests.

We picked mushrooms in the forest which we ate for supper – delicious!

We caught two cows raiding the vegetable gardens at sunset which resulted in a sudden flurry of activity while they were extricated! And for those who sponsored me by blisters, I have had just one so far and two sore toes from walking in wet socks all day! Compeed plasters worked well. The other walkers were all right!

Saturday, 8th September

Fantastic sunny morning! A good drying day which we desperately need. The camp looks like a Chinese laundry with tents, sleeping bags and washing drying! Took an early morning dip in the lake – surprisingly warm! My Sat. ‘phone is on re-charge with its special solar panel. The careful camouflage of the sat. ‘phone (not allowed to carry them in Nepal until recently) in a camera pack failed totally – at least half a dozen people have spotted it as a ‘phone and not a camera!

There is a military camp along the lake with a couple of boats which may constitute the Nepalese Navy – including a pedallo painted in suitable military camouflage! Visited the Shiva temple after lunch and met a 64 year old Sadhu who had just returned from Mount Kailas and has lived here for 24 years. We asked him if Lake Rara was more beautiful than Lake Mansorova and he thought Lake Rara was more beautiful because of the surrounding forest. When asked if we could take his photograph he declined, he said photographs can be destroyed but memories can’t.

 

Gillian Holdsworth’s Trans-Nepal Trek Diary

For those of you who don’t know me, I first came to Nepal in 1986 to work as a field doctor for the Britain Nepal Medical Trust (BNMT).

I left in 1989 and have since then maintained close contact with many of my old colleagues. In 1997 I returned to Nepal for six months and spent much of my time in Humla in West Nepal on the route to Mount Kailas.

West Nepal is very different from the East, it is higher, drier, more remote and also less developed. There I undertook a Child Health and Nutrition survey in the villages of Sunny Valley, assisted by two local women, Maya and Nakuli.

I have remained in close contact with both. Consequently, my annual trips to Nepal have always involved trips to the East or the West where I had most my friends and there were vast areas in between which I risked never seeing.

In 2007 I planned a route with my trekking guide Gamba Rai which would cover all the places I had heard about and wanted to visit. It would start in Humla and finish in Taplejung. This is my journal. 

28th August – 2nd September

I arrived in Nepal via Bangkok on 27th August. The Kathmandu Guest House was heaving with a group of seventy Americans who were off to Mount Kailas. It seems rather a large group to be travelling with and I felt pleased that I didn’t have such large numbers joining my “Noble Trek”. “Noble” is not a name I gave to my endeavour, it was given by Gamba Rai, my trekking guide and who is the managing director of Edelweiss Treks. I was met at the Kathmandu Guest House by Anil Subedi, the BNMT chief executive, Vivek Singh, BNMT’s Publicity and Communications Manager and Gamba with his daughter Pappu. After my media briefing and diary for the week was agreed, I had an early night.

Tuesday, 28th August

Today is Junai Purne, the annual festival for blessing Brahmin strings. One is also given a dora on the same day. This is a piece of thread, tied round the wrist, left side for women, right side for men. It is to be worn until Laxmi Puja when it is removed from the wrist and tied round the tail of a cow. This enables the spirits of the dead to swim across the Ocean of Tears, clinging to the dora tied to the cow’s tail. Thus they reach Heaven! I dutifully accepted one and hope that I am not in yak country on the relevant day! I was told by Gamba that a tiger would also do but of course Gamba is not a Brahmin and would not know!

Wednesday, 29th August

A fellow trekker arrived – Oli Fryatt – the son of Bob and Siobhan who were doctors in Bhohpur and Diktel in 1989 – 91. Oli is on his gap year and plans to walk to Taplejung with me.

BNMT hosted a lunch at the Ambassador Hotel for staff and friends of BNMT where I bumped into Bindu Sakya who used to run the Kathmandu Guest House and I hadn’t seen for years. Bindu recommended a guest house at Jomson which looked very luxurious. I think I might try and stay there on my birthday on 1st October! The other highlight of today was that Sonam arrived. Sonam lives in Khadbari and has been an indefatigable part of my trekking life for ten years.

Thursday, 30th August

BNMT and the Nepal Tourist Board have called a press conference to announce the BNMT trek. There was a good turnout by journalists and it was conducted both in Nepali and English. The Nepal Tourist Board helpfully gave me a copy of their pamphlet about Crisis Management in the Mountains called “Just in Case!” which includes all sorts of immediately important information such as the structure of their tourist crisis co-ordination committee and response action unit!.

So Gamba, Sonam, Oli and I, plus another friend Amala, left for the airport for our flight to Nepalgung. On arrival at Nepalgung we picked up a jeep for the three hour drive to Surkhet. The road has taken a bit of a hammering this monsoon and there were many landslides. We were stopped by two motorcyclists en route who had been told that there were four elephants on the road ahead! They had been advised to wait for a convoy through. We then drove in convoy and the only elephantine things we saw were large black rocks!

Friday, 31st August

We arrived in Surket to low cloud and drizzle. A flight to Jamla looked pretty hopeless. Gamba took us on a tour of Surket to show us the fine example of town planning with its wide boulevards, apparently reminiscent of Paris! I was not quite convinced by the comparison. There were no flights to Humla that day.

Saturday, 1st September

Supposed to be starting our Nepal trek today.

Awoke again to low cloud and rain. We went to the airport to check in and wait for that window when the cloud cover lifted above 5000 metres which would allow Yeti Airlines to fly to Simikot. It was looking increasingly hopeless by 1 pm. Some tourists have waited for flights here for many days.

We chartered a helicopter (well a quarter of one!) which only requires 1500 metres visibility and off we went. It was a Russian Sikorski helicopter with two Russian pilots and was very noisy and a little bit scary but it delivered us safely to Simikot.

In Simikot we met the other two members of our party – Kathy Holloway and Bharat Gautem. Kath worked with BNMT from 1991-98, initially in Bhojpur/Diktel as a field doctor and then later as the Drug Scheme Co-ordinator. Bharat had worked for BNMT for eighteen years until 2002, most recently as Drug Scheme Manager. The last time I saw Bharat was about five years ago when he was doing a one month puja which involved not speaking – so it was quite nice to be able to have a chat!

Sunday, 2nd September

We had a typically protracted departure and finally left Simikot at 11 o’clock. We headed through the bazaar in light rain, purchasing umbrellas en route. We are a total of fourteen, four guests, two cooks, six porters and Sonam and Gamba. We dropped 600 meters down to the Humla Kanali and then walked along the river through forests of ganga which seriously impressed the youngest member of our group! All the bridges over the river have been destroyed during the recent troubles but the locals have opportunistically installed a cable system supporting a wire cage which, for twenty rupees, allows people to cross. We crossed the river using this system and it took our party about forty minutes to complete! That night we camped by the river at Bokche Gaura which means “the place of goats” at 2,139 metres. I am praying there are no bousna! (a nasty biting insect).